1. Prepare the substrate - thoroughly wash and degrease (recommended preparations based on alcohol - not gasoline).

2. Peel the protective film from the substrate, sprinkle the film with distilled water (with shampoo - a more detailed description of the solution is given below) from the side covered with adhesive - the adhesive on the entire surface (not yet attached), during the application process, must remain wet.

3. Apply to the substrate and position accordingly.

4. Push the water out from under the film starting from the center towards the edge.

Good tips to facilitate correct sticking

- use distilled water to create solutions,

- add a minimal amount of shampoo to the water (about 3 drops/l; the most recommended shampoo: Johnson's Baby), so that maneuvering the film on the surface of the paint and pushing the water out from under the film will be easier,

- before peeling the film from the primer, wet everything that will come into contact with the film during application, i.e.: hands (this will prevent leaving fingerprints on the adhesive) and varnish,

- after setting the film in the right place, spray it with water from the outside which will minimize the risk of scratching it when pushing the water out from under it.

- When removing water from under the film, be careful not to miss any spot, do it gradually so as not to close the water outlet anywhere. It is best to repeat this activity after finishing the application (before that, wet it again from the outside - to avoid scratching).

When bubbles form during application

- if it is still possible (the glue did not catch with maximum force - there is water under the film, and the film comes off without much resistance when you try to peel it off) lift/unpick the film by the edge closest to the bubble; spray the lifted part of the film and varnish again, and then lay the film on the surface while pushing the water out from under it,

- try to push it beyond the edge, but do not use excessive force to avoid deforming the film,

- if small bubbles form, which can not be pushed beyond the edge, you can leave them and in time the water under the film will evaporate (depending on the size about 2-3 days, if not see the next point),

- when large blisters form, the film should be pricked with a needle and gently push the water out from under it through the hole created.

For larger irregularities in the substrate

The film should be heated with a heat gun or dryer, and then adjusted to the shape of the substrate.

Foils with rim protection

If the film is designed to also protect the edge of, for example, a fender, the application should be done in the following order:

1. place and position the film on the outer part (e.g., the fender) and eventually push the water out from under it.

2. tape the rim - gently heating the film with a hairdryer or tanner makes this process much easier.

Applying protective film to the rear bumper

1. The way to apply the film on the horizontal part of the rear bumper:

  1. properly align;
  2. affix the film in its central part;
  3. adjust gradually to the curve of the bumper (from the trunk side) and at the same time push the water out from under the film, first from one side and then from the other side.

Note: In some cases, you may feel that the arc of the film does not perfectly match the arc of the bumper before you start applying. The die-cutters are designed to perfectly fit the bumper's shape through the proper way of applying the film as described above.

2. In case the film seems too wide, it means that it is designed to protect the edge of the bumper as well. After the application of the horizontal part of the bumper, you can proceed to stick the film on the rim and below: pull the film gently downward, and then, starting from the center, push the water out from under the film with movements from the top (still starting on the horizontal part of the bumper), up to the bottom edge of the film.

3M polyurethane films - large and rounded parts.

The film is very flexible, adapting to the shape of the car body even without heating. However, in the case of difficult surfaces (very rounded or, for example, bends with a sharp angle) or in a situation where you want the adhesive to bond faster, it is recommended to gently heat the film - preferably with a hair dryer. This causes the water to evaporate faster, and also makes the film even more moldable.

The finished die-cut can sometimes appear too small - this means that the foil needs to be stretched in this area (due to the roundness, there must be enough foil so that there is no excess left anywhere after pasting).

Applying the protective film to the entire front bumper

The whole procedure should be started from characteristic places such as parking sensors, for which holes have been cut in the film, located near the center of the bumper. If there are no special holes, start applying from the center of the bumper and then lay the film towards the sides of the bumper.


Do not allow the film, which is not finally glued - to dry on the adhesive side, it should be sprayed again from time to time with a solution of water and shampoo.

Be careful not to stretch the film unnecessarily (especially in narrower areas) because at a later stage of the installation you may find that excess film remains in other places.

When to peel off the protective film

The film should be peeled off in case of mechanical damage or when defects (stains, yellow tarnish) appear on it that cannot be removed.

Depending on the film, the service life is 4-7 years (with proper application and care - washing once a week and waxing from time to time).

Read more: https://carpaintguard.com/en/content/8-ppf-protective-films-manufacturers

How to peel off the protective film

The film should be lifted by one of the corners, and then pulled at an angle of about 30 degrees in the direction from which the peeling began. Heating the film with a hairdryer during peeling will reduce the adhesion of the adhesive, making it easier to peel off.